At the end of our trip we had two more countries to get through: Lithuania and Latvia. Both relatively small and similar in terms of cycling. There is a favourite between the two in terms of cycling and scenery but nothing to dramatic. 

Lithuania: Countryside and more… countryside.

Emerging from the wilder forests of Northern Poland we suddenly saw a wide and straight gravel road. Usually this meant washboard and tough gravel but Lithuania surprised us. It was pretty decent gravel and we could pick up some speed.
There weren’t any expectations or pre-read information about Lithuania except that wild camping was allowed or you could visit one of the free campsites! Already off to a good start.
Unfortunately for us the gravel road kept going straight and after 50km it became incredibly boring. Drivers of cars also made our life a little more difficult by not slowing down —covering us in dust or passing really close by. 

Eventually the gravel roads went through some smaller forests which immediately changed the cycling for the better. Often on these wider roads the gravel would pile up which made for slow and tough progress. When sheltered by trees it turned into a denser clay and helped with speed and saving energy.

Although there isn’t an app to show us where the free campsites were we did manage to find a couple on google maps. Usually these campsites had a bench, a fire pit and sometimes even a shelter with tables. Ideal for cyclists since they’re usually of the beaten path. We did notice in weekends that it’s a popular spot to hang out for teens, often with loud music. No problem of course but it’s good to know you won’t be there alone all the time. 

Wildcamping without a campsite is also allowed, but it isn’t as accessible as in Scandinavia. We did manage to find a suitable place but you have to spend some time looking since the forests are usually pretty swampy. 

Lithuania wasn’t a country with many highlights or special moments. It felt a little bit like Denmark but less accessible for cyclists. Of course, for us, this was fine because we wanted to explore the lesser known cycling destinations but keep that in mind when planning a route.

Latvia

Latvia had one major difference compared to Lithuania: More hills. Not extremely steep or long hills or anything that you could call a climb but it does go up and down a little. After weeks of flat countryside roads this felt amazing. There is also more forests in compared to Lithuania which makes riding a lot more varied and interesting. Gravel roads, dirt, and sometimes a wood logging trail are all possible surfaces. Even the ‘main’ roads are often made of gravel, with the exception of the town centres. 

Besides more hills and forests, Latvia also had more historic towns and interesting places to see. Small castles on hilltops, cobbled streets in towns and it felt a little bit more scenic. We were there off-season but I can imagine a lot more life when summer starts. 

We went halfway into Latvia before turning West towards Kuldiga and Liepaja. Unfortunately we couldn’t include Riga In this trip so we’ve mainly seen the small villages and forests. While cycling you have a good chance to see moose, which we did, so every rustle immediately makes you excited.
Wildcamping and places to pitch your tent is a little more difficult than Lithuania, but there are of course other options.

Final thoughts Lithuania and Latvia

Heading into both countries with no expectations and still a little disappointed in Poland we both found it a welcoming change.
Both countries aren’t as dramatic or difficult which makes them perfect for a quick gravel exploration. You do however, need to plan a little bit in advance because camping can be tricky.

It became a theme this whole trip and these two countries aren’t different but it is worth mentioning that making contact with people or having a small talk is nearly never happening. The occasional wave when they pass you by car but everyone is very closed and introverted to strangers.
It is part of traveling but when you’re cycling all day and arrive tired at a accommodation it can be a little off putting when you don’t get a lot of help or replies when asking questions. Again, part of riding a bike through less popular countries, which luckily comes with a lot more positives than negatives. 

I highly recommend riding or visiting these countries at least once because it shows you a different side of Europe and it feels special to explore this.

Have no expectations and don’t be surprised if you end up in a field. It happens, and you’ll find a gravel path again.