Northern Peru: A destination worth riding

Towards Peru: Plan A

After some rest days in Cuenca me and the two other guys decided to head out together. Due to an ongoing fight against drug traffic, the Ecuadorian government has closed all border crossings but one: The coastal border.
It wasn’t our preferred route. The coastal border is a lot more chaotic and some parts of Ecuador were unsafe to ride through. Instead we planned a route through the mountains towards the coast.

The night before our departure the mountain road which we wanted to take had experienced a 12 hour long downpour of rain. It had washed away a large section of the road and the day after a woman was unfortunately hit by a falling rock and died. Unsure whether we could get through, we decided to check it out. Usually cyclists are allowed to carry their bikes through, so why not try? The alternative route would be a lot more climbing and riding through some very unsafe areas in Ecuador.

When we arrived at the landslide the police made it very clear we couldn’t go through. The road was completely gone. There was a chance we could go around on top of the mountain. With no more energy and the day running late, we paid a 4×4 to take us the last 30km up, only to be told by the local firefighters another landslide had blocked that side of the mountain too. We were allowed to sleep at the station and the next day took a bus back to Cuenca. Time for Plan B.

Crossing the Ecuador – Peru border: Plan B

With the mountain roads closed we had no choice but to detour along the coast of Ecuador. Locals had repeatedly warned us for this area but we had no other choice. After checking with the local police they told us we could ride from the morning until 16:00. After that we were strongly advised to stay indoors.

With a total of 260km of highway riding in front of us, through some of Ecuador’s least safe regions we got going. With stops for water and food only at gas stations we made quick progress and after two days of intense cycling we finally saw the signs leading us to the Peruvian border.
The border crossing itself was a very relaxed experience. With both customs in the same building we could just hop from one desk to the other and get our stamps.

Three years after visiting Peru for the first time, I’m now back with a new 90-day window to explore this incredible country once again.
This time, by bike!

The coast and desert

Crossing into Peru gave me a bit of a shock. Not because I didn’t know what to expect but because suddenly I was riding through a desert. No longer surrounded by the cold fresh air of mountains, spotting clouds and avoiding the rain, in what felt like a second I was in a dry and warm desert climate.
Flat roads meant I was able to ride more kilometres in a day, and with three other cyclists we could all enjoy some shelter from the headwind. It felt like a true little peloton of dusty and smelly cyclists.
For the next few days, we ate ceviche whenever we got the chance. It can’t and won’t get any fresher than at the Peruvian coast, and rode through oil fields and surf towns. The legs got some easier days spinning but I found myself thinking of the Andes pretty soon again.

There were basically two routes I could take towards Cajamarca. Option one was following the coast for another 500km before tackling a long climb up into the mountains or head inland sooner and slowly make my way up through small mountain villages.
With the idea of more headwinds I decided to head into the mountains once again and punish my legs every single day. But, as I keep telling myself, the views are always worth it.

Through the cloud forest to the Andes

By now, me and the others had split up again and were all taking different routes to Cajamarca. Each with our own preferences.

Niels: Sticking to the coast
Líron & Thomas: Descending further down towards the jungle. (Thomas would later follow my route)
Me: The mountains.

The thing I enjoy most about riding my bike through countries is the slow change in scenery. When I think of the Andes I picture high towering mountains, snow capped peaks and endless fields and lagoons on altitudes where even taking a single step is difficult.
But, as I learned, these conditions and views don’t just appear. There is a whole build up coming in from sea level.

I’ve ridden through lower forest and vegetation, into cloud forests that looked like Vietnam at times, tropical warm jungle before finally making my way up to 4000m where the views openend up again. To then descend down back into a green lush valley, surrounded by birds in all colours and banana trees. Riding my bike here became a simple rhythm: one big climb, a descent and then find a small hospedaje to spend the night. The climbs were often long and slow, stopping slightly earlier made it more enjoyable.
Sometimes I decided when to stop, and sometimes my bicycle. Having ridden more than 25.000km without a puncture, this last week I had 3. Admittedly, 2 were my own fault by not checking the tire properly. A learning process but hopefully one that stops now.

As I got closer to Cajamarca my pace started to change too. Longer days, and even my first hour of riding in the dark. I needed a break and I noticed I enjoyed it less. It became a mission to get to Cajamarca and finally give my body a few days of rest and relaxation. Not worrying about places to sleep, climbs or my bike.
This mountain town also signalled the start of the ‘real’ Andes for me. The altitude would be higher and I’d be spending more time above 3500m, where I love riding the most, even if it is a lot more difficult.
It’s also the start of a route riding through canyons and across high altitude passes towards Huaraz where the real challenge begins: The Peru Great Divide.

Northern Peru: Ride it or skip it?

When making this route through the Northern part of Peru a lot of fellow cyclists told me to skip this section completely and to take a bus to Huaraz. Save time and days for the Peru Great Divide.
Luckily I hate putting my bike on busses because I’m very paranoid something will break or happen to my precious Kona so I would always have cycled it. No matter how boring.

But, as often is the case, I’ve been positively surprised by this part of the country. I have been greeted by so many friendly people, had dinners and breakfasts in tiny mountain dwellings surrounded by only Peruvians who tried their best to understand my basic Spanish* and I am so happy to have experienced this. As excited as I am for the dramatic and remote mountains further south, this part felt very intimate. And because of it, I’m slowly starting to fall in love with Peru even more.