After being fully rested I was eager to set out again and explore more of Norway. Unfortunately the weather forecast was showing a lot of rain.
The first day south was still filled with sunshine and I passed a river with the fastest flowing water in Europe, creating beatiful maelstroms. Slowly clouds and fog began to form around the mountains, a spectacular sight but also a sign of rain and soon after I was completely soaked. When it rains in Norway, it pours. As always it does get better, a glistening road stretching out before me during golden hour showed me once again how beautiful Norway is, even if it’s cold and wet.
At a ferry crossing, whilst the rain and wind picked up, I decided it was time for a change. Norway had been a lot busier, very expensive, and cycling agains a force 6/7 headwind with rain wasn’t appealing to me. Simultaneously I missed the vast wilderness of Sweden. Kilometers of untouched forests and lakes. I needed to go back.
There were two options I considered:
Take a train 400km towards steinkjer, skipping a huge part of Norway’s coast (and bad weather) and there cross the border to Sweden.
Cross the border more North, and cycle south earlier.
After changing my mind many times I finally decided to take the train. At first it felt a little like I was cheating but it made more sense. I’d have better conditions and enjoy the way south more then pushing on and seeing cycling as a must.
Bikes are easy to bring on trains in Norway, you do have to book a spot but when you do it gets hanged in a separate compartment.
Returning to Sweden
Crossing the border with Sweden was exactly how I thought it would be. Funny how a line on a map determines and changes so much. The paved road turned to gravel and immediately there was a shelter to sleep. I followed an old pilgrimage road, king Olaf’s road to a shelter to sleep, unfortunately it had also rained here a lot and it had all turned to a swampy mess. Onwards! The wind picked up but Sweden being Sweden, I found a shelter near a lake pretty easily.
The following days I enjoyed riding on the familiar gravel roads, endless forests, camping next to lakes and eating wild blueberries. This time around I took less photo’s and just enjoyed being back in Sweden. Soaking in as much nature as possible, still being too amazed by seeing a moose to take a photo, sit around campfires at night and really being in the moment. I followed some EDT trails again, reliving memories of when I headed North, it felt so long ago.
I had to cycle through the wintersport area again, very boring and definitely not recommended! A hotel let me camp on their parking spot and use the sauna, what a treat.
As it got colder during the nights I opted for some cabins for my last few nights in Sweden. I checked in at the hostel where I first started this Scandinavian adventure. Exactly two months after arriving in Gothenburg. Of all the countries I’ve visited, Sweden has been one of the best.
East Coast Denmark
Leaving Sweden in the morning felt bittersweet, I had enjoyed it so much and really felt at peace all these day but it was also good to go towards Denmark again. Heading home and start looking at other places to cycle.
Having first cycled the Hærvejen, a long distance hike and cycle route, I now choose a route following the east coast before finally heading west towards Germany.
My initial opinion about Denmark was that it was a boring country to cycle through, but I’ve been comparing it with Sweden, which is not fair.
Denmark has it’s own uniqueness and is definitely appealing for a cycling holiday. The roads vary from long straight asphalt roads but then often changing to gravel farm roads. Seeing remainders of the Viking area, Denmark definitely is interesting to cycle through. Shelters are everywhere and if you use the app ‘’shelter’’ it’s easy to find a super comfortable wild camping spot. The shelters are in good condition and often have firewood + a grill too! And for everyone that thinks Denmark is flat, absolutely not. On average I’ve cycled around 800hm everyday. There is no impressive mountain range but there are hills everywhere. Don’t be fooled.
The final week
Leaving Denmark I’ve entered Germany again, meaning I’m almost home. From where I’m now, Husum, it’s approximately a week left of cycling. I’ll meet up with my dad in Zwolle in about 4 days where we will cycle the Green Divide. A gravel route through the Veluwe ending in Utrecht. A final 300km gravel stretch of an epic adventure. I’ll then spend 1-2 days in Utrecht, visiting friends and relaxing before following the coastline home to Vlissingen. My insane journey is coming to an end and it won’t be long before I can really start to process all that I’ve done. But for now luckily a few more days of cycling!
Important stats of day 93-111
Amount of Km’s: 2013,11km
Amount of Elevation: 16.481m
Amount of calories: 67.672cal
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Total Km’s: 11.346,11
Total elevation: 124.765m
Total Calories: 417.187cal
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